ROAD TRIP! An Epic 7-Day Itinerary for Southern Iceland

Iceland is one of the few countries we’ve visited multiple times and it’s easy to understand why. The culture, people, animals and, of course, the absolutely stunning and breathtaking landscapes keep tugging at my heart, wanting to go back again and again. Despite being a small country, there are simply too many things to see in any short time period, but we’ve done our best to put together a 7-day Iceland itinerary for an epic road trip!

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Though it is possible to go around the country in 7 days, this itinerary focuses primarily in southern Iceland, where many famous sites are located. What I like about this itinerary is that it can be done at any time of the year, whether you have 21 hours of daylight in summer or only 4 hours of daylight in winter (yes, the days are that short)! We will highlight all of the locations in bold font to help you track these sites.

We’ve also mapped out the directions for the major sites to put into your Google Maps:

Part 1: Starting from Reykjavik to Seljalandsfoss

Part 2: Seljalandsfoss to Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon

Let’s take a look at the awesomeness you’ll see over the next week:

Day 1: Reykjavik & Blue Lagoon

After you pick up your car from the Keflavik Airport, you can start your trip to Reykjavik. Though Reykjavik is the largest city in Iceland, it still has the charm of many small towns and there are very few tall buildings. You’ll walk by many small shops and cafes and many of the main attractions are walking distance apart. Perhaps the most well-known attraction in the city is Hallgrimskirkja, the tallest church in all of Iceland. It’s built to look like the basalt rock formations and has amazing views of the entire city. Right across the church is one of our favorites, the Loki Cafe, where you can get delicious traditional Icelandic dishes, but also try the dreaded fermented shark if you’re adventurous enough.

Hallgrimskirkja, Reykjavik Hallgrimskirkja, Reykjavik

From Reykjavik, you can make the 45-minute drive to one of Iceland’s premier destinations, Blue Lagoon, for a relaxing soak in its natural springs. Be sure to book this in advance because time slots can fill up fast. In the spring and summer, the timeslots may not matter as much, but in winter with short daylight hours, it’s important to book early to go during the day. We made this mistake during our second visit, as they only had 4:00 PM reservations available, which is pretty much dark by then. However, there were far fewer people and experiencing the lagoon at night is pretty unique.

Blue Lagoon, Iceland Blue Lagoon, Iceland Blue Lagoon, Iceland

Other places to check out: Harpa Concert Hall, Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur (famous hot-dog stand), Sandholt Cafe (best hot chocolate!), Eldur and IS (for awesome crepes and ice cream)

Day 2: Kirkjufellsfoss to Pingvellir

We start Day 2 early by heading to Kirkjufellsfoss, the only time you’ll head northwest, about 2.5 hours from Reykjavik. Kirkjufellsfoss is particularly recognizable for having Kirkjufell Mountain in the background with the waterfall. It’s also a favorite spot for photographers for sunsets and the Northern Lights. If you have time, you can explore the surrounding area, including nearby Snaefellsjoekull National Park.

Kirkjufellsfoss, Iceland
Kirkjufellsfoss

Kirkjufellsfoss, Iceland

From Kirkjufellsfoss, you can make a 2-hour drive to Hraunfossar, a series of small waterfalls that forms a very picturesque sight. An hour from here, you can head to Glymur, the second tallest waterfall in Iceland that falls into a steep canyon.

Hraunfossar, Iceland
Photo by Ming Ge

Finally, you can cap your day by heading to Pingvellir, a national park about an hour away from Glymur. A UNESCO Heritage Site, you will discover rock and canyon formations from the movement of tectonic plates, as well as the Oxararfoss Waterfall. There is also a unique experience here where you can snorkel or scuba dive at Silfra canyon, a rare opportunity to dive between two continental plates!

Oxararfoss
Oxararfoss

Pingvellir, Iceland

Pingvellir
Pingvellir National Park

For your accommodation, I would look to stay in Laugarvatn, a town only 20 minutes away from Pingvellir. You can check out the Heradsskolinn Boutique Hostel, and also look to enjoy a bath at Laugarvatn Fontana.

Day 3: Bruarfoss, Geysir, Gullfoss, Haifoss

What’s nice about Day 3 is there’s plenty of flexibility for how you’ll want to spend your day. You can start by either revisiting Pingvellir or start heading to some of the other locations. Between Pingvellir, Bruarfoss, Geysir, and Gullfoss it’s only an hour total drive distance, so you can see a lot in a pretty short timeframe.

If you want to start towards Bruarfoss, it’s a little more hidden to find compared to other sites. From Laugarvatn, head east for about 20 minutes and look for the road, Brekkuskogur. There is no sign on the main road pointing to Bruarfoss, so be sure to look for this road. Your GPS should help you find it; however, once we entered the road, the GPS went haywire and couldn’t pinpoint our location. If this happens, just continue straight on the road. You will come to the end of a 3-way intersection and make a left turn. Continue on this road and look for a small sign on your left that says “Bruar.” This is the pathway to the falls, which requires a bit of a walk, possibly through mud and water depending on the weather. But it is worth it, as it is an incredibly beautiful waterfall and there is virtually no people around.

Bruarfoss
Bruarfoss

Bruarfoss, Iceland

Once you finish at Bruarfoss, you can head 15 minutes east to Geysir. Geysir will be much easier to find, as it is a very popular spot for tourists. Here you can see the “Great Geysir” periodically erupt, spewing hot boiling water up to 200 feet in the air! Afterward, head just 10 minutes east to see one of Iceland’s most iconic waterfalls, Gullfoss. Gullfoss is made of two smaller falls before plunging 105 feet into a canyon. Anywhere from 30,000 to 500,000 gallons can be flowing into the canyon. Even from a distance, you can feel the sheer force of wind and mist from the falls. It’s definitely one of the greatest spectacles you’ll see in Iceland.

Gullfoss
Gullfoss

Gullfoss, Iceland

Next, you can head towards Haifoss, a waterfall off from the main roads and about 1.5 hours away, but absolutely worth it. However, you’ll need a 4×4 vehicle to get to this waterfall, since the terrain is very uneven and the road can be prone to shallow flooding. You’ll need to watch for reports whether or not the road is impassable, but if you make it there, you’ll be treated to another spectacular sight. Because of its difficult accessibility, you’ll see very few people here too so you can enjoy the sights to yourself!

Haifoss
Haifoss

To conclude your day, you can look for accommodation in the towns, Hella or Hvolsvöllur.

Day 4: Seljalandsfoss, Skogafoss, Vik

Day 4 also allows you plenty of flexibility to go at a flexible pace, but it provides plenty of things to see! 30 minutes east of Hella, you can visit Seljalandsfoss. Another iconic waterfall, you will be able to see this from the main road, as well as many signs pointing to its location. Seljalandsfoss is unique in that you can actually walk in the cave behind the waterfall.

Seljalandsfoss
Seljalandsfoss

Seljalandsfoss, Iceland

Just 30 minutes further east, you’ll reach the stunning and also iconic Skogafoss, one of my favorite waterfalls. Nicknamed the “Curtain Waterfall” for being shaped like drapery, you can experience the powerful waterfall by walking right up to it. If that’s not enough, you can take the stairs to the top of the falls, where you’ll be greeted with a spectacular view of the landscape.

Skogafoss
Skogafoss

Skogafoss, Iceland

From Skogafoss, you’ll head towards Vik, where there are several places to visit. First, you can check out the viewpoint that overlooks Dyrhólaey Arch. Next, head to Reynisfjara Beach, also known as Black Sand Beach, where you can see the uniquely recognizable basalt rock formations and giant rock formations jutting out in the background. Finally, you can explore the town of Vik, a charming town with exception views of the surrounding landscape, and a place to search for accommodation.

Basalt Rock Formations at Reynisfjara Beach
Basalt Rock Formations at Reynisfjara Beach

Reynisfjara Beach, Iceland

Other places to check out: because these places are very close to each other, you may have time to do other things. Try looking for the hidden hot spring, Seljavallalaug (by the road Raufarfellsvegur) or the Solheimasandur Plane Wreck.

Day 5: Skaftafell, Svartifoss, Vatnajokull & Jokulsarlon

Next, we’ll head east towards Skaftafell. You can choose to hike on the Skaftafell Glacier, which can take up to half a day, or you can go see Svartifoss, a unique waterfall that’s surrounded by basalt rock formations.

Credit: Annie Ngo

From Skaftafell, you can head towards Hof, a town that’s a frequent meeting place for tour groups for a variety of activities on the Vatnajokull Glacier. You can also hike the glacier, but I highly recommend doing an ice cave tour to see the incredible cave formations within the glacier.

Vatnajokull Glacier, Ice Cave Tour, Iceland
Ice Cave Tour, Vatnajokull Glacier

Finally, the last spot of this road trip leads to Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon. This lake holds large icebergs that have broken away from the Vatnajokull Glacier. In the summer, you can take boat tours to ride up close to the ice. Just across the lagoon towards the ocean, you’ll find Diamond Beach, aptly named because of the crystal clear ice fragments that wash up on the beach.

Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon
Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon
Diamond Beach
Diamond Beach

For your accommodation, there’s plenty of inexpensive places in Hof, but if you have room the splurge, check out Fosshotel Glacier Lagoon.

Day 6: Free/Flex Day

Potentially on your 5th day of the road trip, you could see all of the things listed. However, depending on the season, weather conditions, activity schedule or if you decided to pace yourselves, you can be using this 6th day for the latter parts of your journey or visit anything you may have missed.

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Plenty of Icelandic Horses

You may start heading back towards Reykjavik as you prepare to wrap up your trip. From Hof, it would normally take 4 hours straight to get back to Reykjavik. However, if conditions aren’t ideal, it could take longer. When we made our visit this past November, it was raining and snowing, which slowed our drive to over 6 hours.

Since Iceland is so photogenically beautiful, you probably will make several stops to enjoy the scenery and there are still other sites you can check out on your way back. You can pass by Foss a Siou, a tall but thin waterfall that’s in someone’s backyard. There’s also Fjaðrárgljúfur, a massive canyon that measures 100 meters deep. A town not covered in the main itinerary that you could visit is Selfoss, where you can see the Selfoss waterfall.

Day 7: Epic Iceland Road Trip Completed!

Congratulations! You completed your epic road trip of Southern Iceland! By this point, you are likely spending a little more time in Reykjavik before you fly back home.

Although our itinerary covers a lot of spectacular sights, it still only visits the southern part of Iceland! There’s still so much beauty to be seen that one visit isn’t enough, so I’m sure I’ll be back crafting another itinerary to see the rest of this amazing country.

Additional Tips

  1. Although most vehicles will be fine to use, I recommend getting a 4×4 so you are able to trek over tougher terrain, such as Haifoss, and also for poor weather conditions like rain and snow. Keep in mind they are a bit more expensive than compact cars/sedans. I’d recommend Blue Car Rental for great pricing and excellent service. Also, opt for the Mobile Wi-Fi (around $10 a day), so you can use your phone’s GPS, as well as look up various destinations and booking accommodation.
  2. Leave your itinerary at http://safetravel.is/ and download the 112 app so you get all your up-to-date information about Iceland conditions and so they know where you are and in case you need emergency services.
  3. You pretty much don’t need cash, as just about every place takes credit card. If you’re coming from the US, you can use your dollars for cash and don’t need to exchange to Icelandic Krona.
  4. As I mentioned, this itinerary is good for any season. However, because the days are so short in winter, you may be rushed in order to see many of these sites. So if you prefer a more relaxed, slower pace, then you may want to consider visiting in the spring or summer.

Let us know what you think of our itinerary and where are some of your favorite places to see! If you like it, Pin it below!

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7 Tips to Photographing the Northern Lights in Iceland

When making a visit to Iceland, one of the great natural wonders that everyone wants to see is the Aurora Borealis, more commonly known as Northern Lights. The northern lights are a spectacle unlike any other with the intense swirling movement of green lights “dancing” in the starry skies. We were fortunate enough to see it again during our latest visit and it was a dazzling couple of nights.

But finding the northern lights and attempting to photograph them can be very challenging tasks, so we’re going to prepare you in the best way possible. Here are 7 tips for finding and photographing the Northern Lights during your visit to Iceland:

1. Download the Aurora Alerts Northern Lights App,

This could be one of your best resources to track the northern lights. The Aurora Alerts Northern Lights App is a free app provides live up-to-date information of the northern light activity, including the probability of seeing the lights based on location, geomagnetic conditions (KP Index) on a scale of 1-9, hourly to long-term forecasts, and projected northern light coverage worldwide.

You’ll want to go out when the KP Index reads 3 or higher for the best conditions. You can also set up alerts that will tell you when the best chance is to see the lights. This app also works for other countries as well.

Aurora Alerts Northern Lights App
Aurora Alerts Northern Lights App

Just about the only thing it doesn’t do is provide a weather report, so it’s good to have an app or website to show the weather. I liked using the Rainy Days App and also used the Icelandic Met Office website, both showing project cloud coverage throughout the country by the hour. With a combination of these resources, you’ll have everything you need to track the northern lights.

2. Find dark clear skies away from the city

The best places to see the northern lights are places that are away from the city to avoid light pollution. This way your eyes will adjust to the darkness and it’ll be easier to see and photograph the northern lights. That’s simple enough to do since there are plenty of places in Iceland that are far from the city.

The more challenging part may be trying to find dark clear skies. As the locals would say, “If you don’t like Iceland’s weather, wait 5 minutes.” The weather can be particularly fickle, going from very clear skies one moment and then raining minutes later. During our recent visit, it rained 5 of the 7 days we were there and in some instances, it can be cloudy/rainy for days or weeks at a time!

Having the Rainy Days App or the Icelandic Met Office website can help you showing projected cloud coverage and find an area with clear skies. Even partial covered skies can give you some great shots of the northern lights, as long as you have some open sky to show the lights.

Icelandic Met Office Website. This shot indicates it will be may be a good night to see the northern lights in southern Iceland.
Icelandic Met Office Website. This shot indicates it will be may be a good night to see the northern lights in southern Iceland.

Another thing to remember is to not go to Iceland in summer if you specifically want to see the northern lights because the days are very long and at night, it doesn’t get completely dark. It would be very difficult to see the lights under these conditions. The best time to see them would be during fall or winter when the nights are longer and darker.

3. The Northern Lights are not always easily visible

When the northern lights are VERY bright, they are very visible and can illuminate the entire sky. However, sometimes even if the sky looks dark, the lights can still be there. They will be very faint and pretty difficult to see, especially if you’re driving and your eyes are not adjusted to the dark.

These lights were too faint to see clearly. Only my camera could capture this low activity
These lights were too faint to see clearly with my eyes. Only my camera could capture this low activity

If you want to be sure whether or not the lights are there or not, then stop to the side on occasion and let your eyes adjust to the dark. If you can see a faint streak of color in the sky, it is possible those are the northern lights. If you have a camera with the right settings, you can confirm it with a test shot. While the lights may look very weak initially, you can wait a bit and see if the activity gets stronger. In both instances I’ve seen the northern lights, they started out as faint trails, but then intensified into much brighter lights.

4. Having the right camera and equipment

So you found the northern lights! You’re enjoying the wondrous spectacle of dancing lights dazzling through the sky! You bring out your phone or point-and-shoot camera to take a picture and…it’s almost pitch black…you can barely see the lights on your screen…it’s blurry…

Shooting photos at night are not the best conditions for a phone or point-and-shoot camera. If you really want to capture vivid shots of the lights, you need the right equipment. Here is the basic gear you should carry:

Tripod – Any tripod generally will be OK, but it’s highly recommended to bring a strong and sturdy tripod and prevent any vibration causing blurry images and especially on nights when it can be windy and will blow away any cheap tripod. You’ll be working with exposures from 5-20 seconds, so you need to be sure your tripod will keep your camera completely still.

Camera with Manual Mode – You need a camera that you can adjust the settings manually, primarily shutter speed, F-stop, and ISO. Auto will not help you here.

Although it’s still recommended to have a full-frame camera because of better low-light capabilities, better ISO performance and image quality, and more lens selection, you can still get shots with an advanced mirrorless or point-and-shoot camera as long as they have manual capabilities. I used full-frame cameras, including a Nikon D750 and a Sony A7s. However, if you’re on a budget, you can do well with a non-full-frame mirrorless camera like a Sony D6300 or Fujifilm XT1, or even use an advanced point-and-shoots like the Sony RX100 series or a Canon GX7.

Wide Angle Lens – A wide angle lens will help you capture a good amount of the foreground as well as the sky. When looking for a lens, anything 24mm or lower is ideal, and you want to look for F-stops as low as 2.8.

Remote Trigger (Optional) – It’s good to have if you want to take selfies and also to take a shot without pushing the camera button to prevent any vibration. If you don’t have a trigger, you can use the camera self-timer to take a shot.

Powerful flashlight (Highly Recommend) – We’ll get into more of this in the next tip.

5. Setting up your focus

Perhaps the most challenging part of night photography is focusing in the dark. In pitch black darkness, cameras are not able to properly autofocus on a particular object. Thus, you have to figure out how to manually focus your lens.

An easy way to set up your focus is to do it before dark sets. You can use your camera to autofocus on a distant point. Once the lens is focused, switch your lens to manual focus and do not touch it for the rest of the night. You can use tape to hold the lens’ focus ring or use a marker to mark the focus point on your lens. You’ll be good to go when shooting the northern lights in any direction.

If you did not focus before dark, then you’ll have to figure out how to focus at night. My favorite method is using a powerful flashlight that can illuminate an object at a distance. If you can light a distant object, many cameras will be able to autofocus on the object, which then you can switch back to manual focus. If your camera cannot focus on the illuminated object, have someone take the flashlight and walk 50-100 feet away. Your camera should be able to autofocus at the brightest point this way, and you can fine-tune the focus manually. I love Maglite flashlights because they are incredibly powerful and make it easier to focus at night at a distance, but a good headlamp will do the job too.

Seljalandsfoss brightly lit with flood lights. Easy for cameras to focus
Seljalandsfoss brightly lit with flood lights. Easy for cameras to focus

Without at least flashlight, focusing can be a little trickier. Some full-frame cameras have excellent live-viewfinders that perform remarkably well at night, so it can be easy to find the brightest star and bring it into focus. If you don’t have that, then the next best option is to start your lens from ∞ (infinity symbol) and adjust by trial and error with minuscule adjustments after each trial shot.

6. Manual Settings to use

The best combination of settings to use to shoot the northern lights is a large aperture (f2.8 – 4), longer shutter speed (5-20 seconds), and relatively high ISO (800-6400, though ideally around 1600 ISO). You can start with something like f2.8, 15 seconds, 1600 ISO and work from there. If you stick around those ranges and make the necessary adjustments, you will be able to get good shots of the northern lights. You should also manually set your color temperature (K) to around 2800-4800.

As an added bonus, if you have long enough shutter speeds, you can do light painting and make doodles in your images. When you turn on a light, the camera will capture the movement of the lights until you turn off the light. Try this out when you do long exposures!

7. ALWAYS Shoot Raw

One of the biggest mistakes I see people make while taking photos at night (and in general) is only shooting in JPEG. You should always shoot in RAW, which creates a digital negative of your image. This file allows you to make much more adjustments in post-processing with Photoshop or Lightroom, whereas adjusting a JPEG image is very limited and will hurt the quality of the image. Most advanced cameras offer the ability to shoot RAW, so although it takes up significantly more space, it is still almost a necessity to shoot in that format.

Adjustments made with a RAW file. Cannot be easily done with a JPEG
Adjustments made with a RAW file. Cannot be easily done with a JPEG

Hope these tips will help you when you’re out searching for the Northern Lights. Ask us any questions and let us know what helped you photograph the lights!

7 Tips to Photographing the Northern Lights in Iceland

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Iceland’s Curtain Waterfall: Skogafoss

It’s a little surprising how close to each other many sites are on the Golden Circle in Iceland. Just 29 kilometers east of Seljalandsfoss, you’ll be able to see the waterfall Skogafoss, nicknamed the “Curtain Waterfalls.” This impressive fall is 60 meters tall, 25 meters wide and is famously recognized for it’s rectangular shape and straight drop that forms the look of a shower curtain.

Skogafoss Waterfall, Iceland

Skogafoss is also very easily accessible, which is probably another reason it is a popular destination for tourists. The ground to the fall was flat and, other than some rocky areas, it was an easy walk right to the waterfall base. Mat’s mom and dad could enjoy strolling around the falls without any stress. If you don’t mind getting cold and wet, you can get really close to the base of the falls. Even from a distance, you can feel the force of the winds and mist produced at the base of the falls. There are also campgrounds and hostels available if you wanted to stay there.

Skogafoss Waterfall, Iceland

There is also a path with stairs to the right of the falls to climb to the top of a lookout point. It takes a good five minutes to climb all of the steps to the top, but it’s definitely worth it. From there, you can see up close the crest of Skogafoss, as well as a spectacular view towards the Atlantic Ocean. You can then follow a trail that leads upstream to smaller falls and green open fields.

Skogafoss Waterfall, Iceland

Skogafoss Waterfall, Iceland

Skogafoss Waterfall, Iceland

Skogafoss Waterfall, Iceland

Skogafoss will always have a place in our hearts because it is where I proposed to my fiancée. It was a perfect location and there were very few people to allow us to share our moment in private. We will definitely revisit and spend more time by this beautiful waterfall.

Skogafoss Waterfall, Iceland

Skogafoss Waterfall, Iceland

Skogafoss Waterfall, Iceland

Skogafoss Waterfall, Iceland

Skogafoss Waterfall, Iceland Skogafoss Waterfall, Iceland

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Hike Behind Seljalandsfoss Waterfall

On the last leg of our Europe trip, we planned a layover in Iceland for three days during our return trip to preview the country. (It was also significantly cheaper to purchase flights with a layover in Iceland than purchase direct return flights). We quickly had our breaths taken away of Iceland’s natural beauty and it was clear that we would be returning for a longer stay in the future.

That doesn’t mean we couldn’t see a lot in just a few short days. If you only have a short amount of time in Iceland, the Golden Circle route is only 300 kilometers (186 miles), which means you can cover plenty ground with a rented car. Many of Iceland’s most visited and iconic spots are situated on this route and enabled us to get a glimpse of the natural beauty the country has to offer.

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One of the stops we made was at the famous Seljalandsfoss Waterfalls. It’s only 1.5 hours away from Reykjavik and 2 hours away from Blue Lagoon. The waterfall’s height is an impressive 60 meters (200 feet), but what makes it truly unique and one-of-a-kind is you are able to hike behind the waterfall. It is mesmerizing and you can really feel the power of the falls with the windy mist it generates.

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With the mist constantly being thrown in every direction by the waterfall, it may be advisable to bring a waterproof jacket or rain poncho to keep dry and warm. It can also be a challenge photographing behind the falls because of the mist. I had to constantly and quickly wipe mist off my lens every few seconds just to avoid having water droplets in my photos. And there are access points to the back of the falls on both sides of the waterfall, which allows you to see the falls at every angle possible and maybe find some drier areas.

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Seljalandsfoss is no doubt a must visit on the Golden Circle and can provide many picturesque opportunities for visitors and photographers. If you are afforded a longer stay, there are places to stay and you can camp near the falls, which may provide some other amazing photo opportunities.

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